Pierburg 175 CD instructions

I can't help with diagrams. Regard specisl oil for damper just use ATF (automatic transmission fluid) Regards cap and rotor - the cap should look bsically the same. Rotors - ther were two types used a standard one and a rev limiter one (this is bigger and bulkier and more expenxive) Either will work ok - I never use the rev limiter one but that is personal preference. Mike

pierburg 

hi ive had one of these carbs full stripdown & set up is covered in the haynes manual (green one) quite easy to follow.i did find if theres no blockage alot can be achieved with a can of spray carb cleaner just remove air cleaner and follow instructions on can just make sure you fit a new in line fillter to keep it clean.:Dancing_sorry: :speechless-smiley-6

Pierburg CD175s will take ordinary 20/50w oil so you don't have to buy ATF - at least the 3 B21/B230A/B200K's I ran were happy enough on it. The problem is the needle/jet assembly - the needles and jets wear after about 25k miles (40k Km) and they have to be sourced from a dealer because no one else used them. On mine I replaced the Pierburg with a non-emissions Stromberg CD175 and adjusted the mix and idle. Replace the diaphragm while you've got the carb in bits - it only costs a couple of pounds. The rotor arms for carb'ed models are different those on the injected ones in my experience - my GLT has a rev-limiter rotor arm and the mounting shaft is a greater diameter than the B200K's. Good luck and keep on motoring..........